There is no mistaking the elegant bottles leaving this winery for anything we drank in the ’80s!
Historic Origins
An ancient and historic favorite grows in the heart of Italy. Enjoyed by people as early as the Etruscans, this fruity, fizzy, and insanely drinkable red wine is now being elevated to Epernay levels of luxury, a level of distinction the area has seldom seen. And at the helm of this innovative house is the Bellei family. In this winery showcase, we will meet the Bellei family and their unique Lambrusco house, Cantina della Volta.
The Bellei family has a multigenerational connection not only to Lambrusco but also to the region itself. On the banks of the Naviglio di Bomporto canal in the 1920s, near an 18th-century dock, the great-grandfather of co-founder Christian Bellei built the original Cantina Bellei. The family’s passion for sparkling wine took them back and forth to Epernay, the capital of Champagne, where they studied the fine art of traditional Champagne vinification in hopes of bringing that knowledge back to Lambrusco di Sorbara.
After tasting and studying their way through Champagne, father-son duo Giuseppe and Christian founded Cantina della Volta together in 2010, in the winery built to carry their name. “Bellei” not only honors their grandfather but also the “la volta” (‘the turnaround’) that ships would make in the Naviglio di Bomporto canal to change direction. The Bellei family clearly values tradition and origin, and we’ll explore how they’ve made great strides in innovating and elevating Lambrusco vinification.
Grapes, Gadgets, and Genius
Today, Cantina della Volta is where generational tradition meets avant-garde winemaking technology. All wines produced by Cantina della Volta result from the Bellei family’s dedication to the scientific, meticulous, and sustainable cultivation of grapes, their commitment to quality control from vine to bottle, and their perfect balance of pioneering techniques and traditional methods.
The winery is continuously engaged in research to ensure they have not only the best-quality grapes but also remain distinct in a crowded marketplace. The site even boasts a Bucher Vaslin press (which measures and controls the pressing of the grapes), an air conditioning system that keeps the climate and temperature just right, temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, and perhaps the coolest part: a disgorging line mechanism paired with a line to add specific amounts of dosage!
Following Modenese tradition, Cantina della Volta ferments its wines in-bottle for that signature fizzy-to-bubbly quality, rather than relying on an autoclave (a large, pressurized stainless steel tank used for fermenting base wines). The rest are produced using the traditional method, which allows for a long bottle maturation period, followed by expert disgorgement and dosage. Cantina della Volta is a beacon of equilibrium between tradition, machinery, dedicated research, and innovative production. These factors contribute to their wines being truly unique.
Fermentation with Flair: In-Bottle Magic
Cantina della Volta creates some of the most unique examples of Lambrusco in Emilia Romagna. As mentioned earlier, the Bellei family closely monitors every minute detail of the winemaking process, striving to honor the area’s traditions while making scientific strides. This all culminates in the pop of a bottle. Let’s explore three standout wines that truly exemplify the meticulous and artful hand of Cantina della Volta.
Rimoso
This wine exemplifies the Modenese tradition of letting the wine naturally re-ferment in the bottle. It starts with only one variety of Lambrusco di Sorbara, handpicked in small batches from a plot grown on the Secchia River, in the heart of the Emilia Romagna region. After maceration and alcoholic fermentation, it is bottled with all of its spent yeast or “lees” to mature and develop delicate characteristics. The finished wine evokes aromas of wild strawberries, currants, raspberries, cherries, and florals, with notes of dry yet fantastically juicy cranberry, black cherry, and a touch of red raspberry.
Millesimato Bianco Christian Bellei
The Millesimato Bianco is one of the most unique and fun examples of how the Bellei family shapes Lambrusco with an innovative approach to vinification. This wine is made from 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara, a red grape, yet the wine produced is white! During the pressing process, the grapes are squeezed lightly to limit the amount of color bleeding from the skins. It also undergoes a fining step to ensure the juice is clear and white. Like the Rimoso, the Millesimato stays in bottle on its lees, in this case for a minimum of 36 months. The final product elicits aromas of floral notes like daisy and violet, along with hints of white currant, lime, and wild strawberries. On the palate, the Millesimato Bianco showcases the best of Lambrusco di Sorbara: bright, juicy notes of red fruits like raspberry and red currant with a zippy lemon zest finish.
Il Mattaglio Brut Classic Method
Ah, the pièce de résistance for Cantina della Volta—their answer to Champagne. It starts with the best selection of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, two of the three key Champagne grape varieties. These grapes are hand-harvested and transported carefully to the facility to ensure minimal damage to the delicate berries. After a gentle pressing, only the best undergoes fermentation. It is then rested for six months, undergoes meticulous yeast selection, and is fermented in bottle for a second time over 24 months to ensure the development of mature and complex flavors. The final product is a beautiful cacophony of lemon and lime peel, jasmine blossoms, peaches, mangoes, and cotton candy sweetness. On the palate, an elegant experience of crisp citrus and fresh yellow fruits with a persistent mineral finish.
Cantina della Volta seamlessly blends tradition and innovation, creating exceptional Lambrusco wines. From the naturally re-fermented Rimoso to the unique Millesimato Bianco and Champagne-inspired IL MATTAGLIO Brut, each wine reflects the Bellei family’s dedication to craftsmanship, elevating Emilia Romagna’s winemaking to new heights.
Your New Favorite Lambrusco House
Cantina della Volta represents the perfect fusion of tradition and innovation, with the Bellei family at the heart of this transformation. Their unwavering dedication to unique craftsmanship, research, and pioneering techniques is elevating Lambrusco from a regional favorite to a wine of global acclaim. Whether you’re savoring the naturally re-fermented Rimoso, the innovative Millesimato Bianco, or the Champagne-inspired Il Mattaglio Brut, each bottle tells the story of a rich heritage and a commitment to pushing the boundaries of winemaking.
Now, we’d love to hear your thoughts! Have you experienced Cantina della Volta’s unique Lambruscos? Leave a comment below, share your favorites, or explore their wines to taste the future of Lambrusco for yourself. Isn’t it fascinating to think that such an ancient tradition is still evolving to create extraordinary new expressions? The best of Lambrusco might just be yet to come!
